New York Fashion Week Spring 2007: Wrap-Up Edition • Sabyasachi • Alice Roi • Alexandre Herchcovitch • Texerov • Sass & Bide
Here is part of the last bit of our Olympus Fashion Week coverage. We must admit it took us a few days to figure out a format we liked, and we tried to hit so many shows in the first couple of days, that we didn't leave ourselves enough time to write about them for you, so we're backtracking. There is a little bit of an anti-climactic feeling after it's all over. We miss the free brownies from the world's best UPS deliverymen. They cheerfully strolled the tents all day chatting and serving sweets. They were rivaled in their cordiality only by the Peroni boys who distributed Italian beers whose bottles they opened with their specially designed belt buckles. Seriously. Belt buckles. The pandering to the press by sponsors was non-stop, but that's sort of par for the course if you think of the whole day as a fancy trade show. It is barely compensation for the constant lining up, checking in and being corralled into pens like cattle while waiting to be let into shows. We were buttonholed by Delta Airlines to enter their daily prize drawing, and given for our troubles a cookie decorated with the image of Anna Wintour. This gave us the rare and enviable opportunity to literally bite Anna Wintour's head off! She's never done anything to us personally, so we did it for the many all over New York who hold that particular grudge. Subsequent days' cookies were decorated with images of Anna Sui, Oscar de la Renta and Anna Sui, who don't offer the same violent thrill, and we later found out that they cost Delta Airlines $6 apiece! They really wanted to promote themselves!
Unfortunately, the Clunky Shoe Report was not what we were hoping for. They were pretty few and far between, frankly, with only a few fashion victims who insisted on adopting the style. Most opted for smaller platforms or wedges that were marginally more functional and less ridiculous. Note the opportunity to compare at right. A closer look at the Clunk on the left reveals something very disturbing. It's something most of us had hoped would never happen again. Yes, we are afraid the stirrup pant may be getting ready for a comeback.
It's scary, we know, but we'll try to carry on.
More follow up reviews after the jump.
September 9, 12:00 PM The UPS Hub • SABYASACHI
We're actually sorry we didn't review this earlier because as the week wore on, Sabyasachi stood out as one of the more memorable and original. Sabyasachi Mukherjee is something of a star in his home country of India, and a bit of an iconoclast in his use of traditional sari fabrics in decidedly non-traditional ways. He managed to cover the prevailing shapes of the season, but interpreted them in his own way with deft mixes of patterns and colors, and surprise details like red panels on the back of an otherwise somberly colored dress. Darker colors and stockings may have been a bit heavy for spring, and the glasses and flats on some models tried a little too hard to say "serious", but overall, it was a refreshing show that begged for a closer look.
Swag: Not so much swag in the young designer tent, but always an UPS brownie.
Celebrities: We were promised all of Bollywood, but we only recognized America's Next Top Model Judge, Photographer Nigel Barker.
September 9, 1:00 PM The UPS Hub • ALICE ROI
Honestly, we had to go to the internet to get a good look at this one. Everyone seemed to like it. It's not that we didn't go, but we could barely see it, and we were in the tent! Such are the perils of standing, and a signal to Alice Roi that perhaps it's time for an upgrade on the venue size. What the pictures remind us of is the continuing evolution of Alice Roi. The current 80's vibe is right up her witty alley as she makes preppy sexy with high waists and neutral colors and updates the new wave sailor stripe in green velour.
Music: Speed Metal
Swag: None for us
Celebrities: John Bartlett
September 9, 3:00 PM The Tent • ALEXANDER HERCHCOVITCH
Alexander Herchcovtich would have been a lot easier to review had we been admitted to the tent before the show started. Yeah, that can put an unfortunate bias on things, but since it is really the PR firm's fault (same one as Jay McCarroll, unsurprisingly) we will try to remain objective. Indignancy issues aside, this was a bright colorful show, typical of Herchcovitch, mixing military shapes, mini-kilts and neon geometric prints for the occasional do-not-adjust-your-set effect. That wasn't too biased, was it?
Music: Brazilian pop.
Swag: come on, we barely got in.
Celebrities: Patricia Field, club fixture Sophia Lamarr.
September 9, 4:00 PM The UPS Hub • TEREXOV
We're not sure why, but we were expecting flamboyance and drama from Terexov, a Moscow based label designed by Alexander Terekhov. what he showed was a toned-down collection of gowns in draped satins and jerseys and simple sportswear pieces. Actually, a little drama and flamboyance wouldn't have hurt.
Music: Prince, Dusty Springfield "Windmills of Your Mind"
Swag: None to speak of
September 9, 7:00 PM The Promenade • SASS & BIDE
Sass & Bide have been studying their Geoffrey Beene as evidenced by the first few looks in their show. This is not a bad thing, as they succeeded in doing what Mr. Beene couldn't (or more likely, didn't care to) do, and that is update his look for a younger generation. What followed was an energetic Ancient Egyptian/Art Deco-inspired collection in black, gold, beige and cream that was wildly received by its audience. Drapey dresses with bubble hems and trapunto details should keep fans of this Australian label happy next spring, though the '80's draped jodphur may stay in the showroom.
Music: Peaches, Christina Aguilera "Candyman"
Swag: None for standing
Celebrities: None that we saw