The Shophound

Vintage News: Gucci Looks Back And Sets Prices

It's strangely slow starting this week over at The Shophound. Even the first Menswear shows for Fall 2010 are looking sedate and self referential. In the spirit of looking back, the story of the day concerns Gucci and Christie's who have joined forces to launch the Gucci Collector mini-site today. It's an unusual team-up that allows the luxury house to participate more closely in the valuation of its heritage, and We're sure the folks at Hermès, Louis Vuitton and Chanel are watching closely to see how things progress with this venture.
The subsection of Christie's website allows people who have been keeping or collecting vintage Gucci pieces to have them appraised by the auction house —and by vintage we really mean pre-Tom Ford or earlier, and are pretty confident that Christie's does too. They are also offering the possible opportunity of Gucci buying special pieces back for their own upcoming museum or Christie's including items in future vintage fashion sales. All they need are clear color images of the front and back of the item, and a close-up of the Gucci signature or mark as well as dimensions, materials and other details. A history of the item as well as any authenticating receipts or tags or other materials are also requested. Christie's promises a response within two to four weeks.
Mom's old purse might turn out to be a little gold mine after all.
• In other news, the folks at Refinery 29 has gotten their hands of the look books for Target's upcoming Jean Paul Gaultier and Zac Posen collections, but were then promptly asked to remove the images! As far as we can tell from what we briefly glimpsed, they both look a lot better than the disappointing Rodarte items we finally saw in person at Target in Brooklyn yesterday.
• Alessandro Dell'Acqua is back in the game with a new, sportier label called N^o 21 launching at Milan's upcoming fashion week. Much like Roland Mouret, Joseph Abboud and many others, Dell'Acqua no longer owns the commercial rights to his own name, and has titled the line after his December birthday. The designer promises wearable everyday clothes.
• And, yes, you have heard correctly, Sarah Jessica Parker is now the President and Chief Creative Officer of Halston. It's more than the advisory position we had heard about, and yet with her previous fashion experience (remember Bitten?) and smart business sense, we think this could actually work. Marios Schwab, who has yet to début his first Halston collection, will remain in position, while Parker is initially expected to focus on the Halston Heritage line, which revives vintage designs from the label's archives. Somehow, we expect a warmer reception for this development than there was for Lindsay Lohan's infamous collaboration at Emanuel Ungaro, mainly because SJP is not an erratic party girl, but now the pressure is really on for Halston's owners to finally engineer a successful revival of the brand.
Speaking of Ungaro, WWD has a look at current designer Estrella Arch's pre-fall looks. The jury is still out on Archs, but conspicuously absent are sequined nipple pasties and any mention of La Lohan.

+J Update: The Line's Inside

UNIQLO has done us all a favor this week by closing off a special department for its Jil Sander +J collaboration label. That means eager shoppers won't have to wait outside in the cold. Instead, shoppers are queueing up inside the store, as security strictly controls the number of customers inside the shop-in-shop. The picture above is from yesterday at about 4 PM. It looks like they are making efforts to avoid H&M style chaos and allow customers to shop in relative peace,but if you do see a line on the sidewalk, that means it really will be a long wait.
We're fans though, in our only marginally humble opinion, it's totally worth the wait.
Previously:
Collaboration Anticipation: UNIQLO +J For Spring Launches Today

Collaboration Anticipation: UNIQLO +J For Spring Launches Today

Pictured above is what you will see if you have decided to wake at the crack of dawn this morning to get the first shot at the first Spring 2010 delivery of UNIQLO's +J collaboration with the designer Jil Sander. After last Fall's blockbuster debut, this is one of the few times you will see of the line before it has been ransacked by eager customers. Unlike last season, there have been few preview images posted, so last night's press shopping preview was the first chance most of us got to see the collection up close (We also got wine and hors d'ouvres as well as a crew of attentive salespeople that could rival any luxury store and kept the merchandise meticulously folded, not that we would gloat or anything). Could it live up to last season's stellar standards? Yes and then some.
As we expected, the sheer drapes have been moved to a side of the main floor providing lots of shelves, big mirrors and easy dressing room access. The staff had even placed empty t-stands in strategic spots where shoppers could drape their coats and bags while they slipped on a jacket. The insider-y VIPs were loading their arms in much the same way they did last October. Among them were Richard Lambertson, who told us that the first Lambertson Truex for Tiffany & Co. leathergoods line will be shown to press in April and hit stores in September, but we digress...
The collection has been expanded, so this delivery is only the first of three to be spread throughout the next few months. There's more minimalist basics that everyone liked so much the first time around recast in lighter colors and high tech synthetic and cotton fabrics that have replaced last Fall's lofty woolens. This delivery highlights jackets and coats ranging from tailored blazers to anoraks and lightweight down filled pieces that are ready to be worn right now for instant gratification. We tried on nearly every single men's jacket, and each one fit better than the last. Standouts include a surprisingly flattering, lightweight down shirtjacket in peacock blue (really!) and series of sporty cotton twill jackets with military inspired details. Women will find corresponding pieces as well as separates in pastel techno fabrics.
If there is one caveat it's that the size scale remains as frustratingly restricted as last season, topping out with Larges that are more like Mediums. In fact, many of the staff will commiserate with you, admitting that they had just as much trouble fitting into the clothes themselves. One associate suggested to us that the sizing complaints had indeed made their way back to the people who make decisions about such things, so hopefully the future will see some correction.
It it worth it to get up early and stand in line? Regular Shophounders will know we are UNIQLO's biggest fan, but we loathe waiting in a line on the sidewalk. If you allow yourself to queue up just once this year, however, this would be the time. In this case, the sequel looks even better than the original.
UNIQLO's +J Launch at 546 Broadway, SoHo opening at 8 AM thru 1/16, 9 AM on 1/17
Previously:
Collaboration Anticipation: Another Peek At +J Spring
Collaboration Anticipation:UNIQLO Prepares For +J Redux Next Week

More images after the jump

Collaboration Anticipation: Surprises And Disappointments As Rodarte For Target Launches

Yesterday, the much anticipated Rodarte for Target collections hit the malls and the internet, and now the inevitable blogger responses have been filed, questioning the quality, but marveling at the breadth of the collaboration.
Madison Avenue Spy has expressed deep disappointment over the quality of the fabrics and construction of the items. That much previewed sequin ribcage dress seems to be the main point of disenchantment with fabric like "a Disney fairy princess costume".
Our friends at RACKED headed to a Jersey City Target and seem equally dismayed with the line's execution, suggesting that the Mulleavy Sisters who design the label might have done better working with a retailer like Anthropologie which might have resulted in a somewhat more expensive product, but a much a higher quality level. They were, however pleasantly surprised that there were quite a few more items available in store than online. Other shoppers appeared to be interested, and sales staff report that it is selling just fine, and eBay is already full of the line at quadruple the price.
Online, all reports point to a sellout, although there's now way of knowing who is going to keep what they ordered once they can actually try it on and judge the quality for themselves.
Here's something to keep in mind: we are talking about $45 dresses here from designers whose intricate, artisan-made creations regularly hit five figures.
Perhaps expectations were were a little inflated?
Maybe just a little?

Collaboration Anticipation: UNIQLO's +J Spring Collection Set For Mid-January Launch

Those of you who have been breathlessly waiting for the next installment of UNIQLO's collaboration with the designer Jil Sander, +J, can mark your calendars and begin the countdown. A new installment, the Spring 2010 collection, will be available in the U.S. on Thursday,  January 14^th. This time, the company is planning a regional rollout for the collection , releasing it in Asia just a few days before Christmas on December 23^rd, in the UK on January 7^th and finally in France on the 20^th.
So far, no images have been released, but WWD reports that the collection will include, 'knitwear, jackets, shirts and other items in fabrics such as waterproof ultra-fine cottons, high tech-satins and “sumptuous wools.” The palette will feature white, ivory, pastel hues and “chalked out acids,” the company said.'
Of all the collaborations out there (and they seem to be increasing exponentially) regular readers know that this is one of our very favorites, and if last October's début is anything to go by, the lines will be long to get into the store on the first few days, so get there early.
If you are wondering why New York, London and Paris have to wait so long after the Asian stores, it is probably because the western stores have a separate production with different sizing. Some shoppers have discovered this as the SoHo location recently received replenishments in the smaller Japanese sizes (Check the hangtag. If it's in Japanese, size up.). As for the the fall collections, UNIQLO has begun to mark down a few remaining categories like Men's knits, and there appear to be plenty of coats left for Men and Women.
As for pictures, we'll have them up as soon as we get 'em.
UPDATE:
We have pictures! Here are behind the scenes shots of what looks like model Iselin Steiro and a male model with a sort of bowl cut who we can't quite identify (but surely someone out there can). No word on who's shooting. Anyway, this should satisfy you until the official campaign shots are released. See above and after the jump and thanks to some stellar UNIQLO PR. And here's the price list, which is pretty similar to Fall, and by that we mean extremely affordable.
UNIQLO Spring/Summer 2010 product price range
Outerwear, Coats & Jackets    $49.50 - $149.50
Bottoms                                     $39.50-$59.50
Shirts                                          $39.50
Dresses                                      $49.50-$99.50
Cut & Sewn                              $10.50-$49.50
Knitwear                                   $29.50-$129.50
Uniqlo's +J Spring-Summer Collection Set to Launch (WWD)
UNIQLO +J Official Site

Rogues Gallery/John Bartlett Collaboration Is A Hit As The Designer Bounces Back

You never know what's going to sell out first.
Since we missed John Bartlett's launch party last week for his collaboration with Rogues Gallery, we stopped by his boutique yesterday to check it out just in time to catch John selling the next-to-last union suit from the collection to a customer who was so pleased that he wore it right out of the store (under his clothes, of course).
Don't worry, there are still plenty of great t-shirts and accessories from the line left at the shop, including the "log carrier" that raised a few eyebrows and turns out to make a particularly luxurious zippered leather tote for those with less need for firewood. John told us that the collection has been such a success that he's planning to increase its frequency from a seasonal project to a new group appearing every couple of months.
Always up for a friendly chat, the designer put a good spin on the ending of his Claiborne men's collection, calling it a great learning experience. He admitted that even before he was involved, the line's prospects were dampened by a nervous, contracting retail market and ongoing friction between Liz Claiborne Inc. and retailers like Macy's whose support was crucial to success. There are still lots of great, extremely well priced items from the fall Claiborne line mixed in with his main collection at Bartlett's West Village boutique where he has had a busy season and can still be regularly found personally helping weekend customers. We have to say that having the designer himself choose one of his signature cable-knit scarves to match our outfit was a rare treat that you definitely won't find anywhere else.
Rogues Gallery for John Bartlett 143 Seventh Avenue South at Charles Street, West Village
Previously:
Collaboration Du Jour: John Bartlett Rebounds With Rogues Gallery: A First Look

Collaboration Du Jour: John Bartlett Rebounds With Rogues Gallery: A First Look

After the unfortunate repositioning of Liz Claiborne's labels, John Bartlett has wasted no time in finding new projects. The latest is a collaboration with Rogues Gallery's Alex Carleton for a collection that will be sold exclusively at Bartlett's West Village boutique starting this December.
For starters, the collection, to be called Rogues Gallery/John Bartlett, will include the sweet handcrafted leather gym bag pictured above, as well as Carleton's signature t-shirts in exclusive patterns (see Rooster & Berlin below), pique polo shirts and a black over-dyed union suit for frosty Winter nights. The extensive accessory collection will include, aside from the aforementioned bag (an excellent stocking stuffer for, perhaps, The Shophound), a leather log carrier, and bankers’ envelopes made from leather, silk screened canvas and vintage, recycled wools.
Carleton, who is also developing the L.L.Bean's Signature premium collection, has a New England vintage aesthetic that seems to be blending nicely with Bartlett's current rugged classic mode, so if we're lucky, this team-up could be an ongoing program. Thanks to John for these preview images. We're looking forward to seeing more soon.
 

Click images to enlarge

UNIQLO Alert: +J Is Back In Stock With A Surprise Delivery

As if we haven't written enough about UNIQLO this week, we wouldn't want to miss telling you that the SoHo flagship has received a surprise replenishment of the +J collection designed by Jil Sander direct from Japan to satisfy everyone who missed out on the best pieces last month.
The one caveat is that because the goods are from the Japanese stores, they are in smaller Japanese sizes which may be cut slightly differently.
Most people don't realize it, but UNIQLO has different production runs specifically cut for its New York, London and now Paris stores. To make your shopping easier, the store has posted handy size translation charts over the newly replenished +J racks (pictured above), and recommends careful trying on before you buy.
Back in the store are such long gone items as woven shirts for men and women, men's tailored jackets and pants. Many women's separates, knitwear and sold out outerwear pieces for both genders have also returned, so if you weren't quick enough to get what you wanted the first time, here's your second chance (especially if you are on the petite side).
The easiest way to discern the Japanese sized items from the Western ones? Check the hangtags. The Japanese ones will be mostly written in...you guessed it...Japanese!

Collaboration Anticipation: H&M Offers Jimmy Choo Preview Shopping for A Select Few

H&M's biggest designer collaboration of the year with Jimmy Choo is set to be released in less than two weeks, and the Swedish chain is giving a select few the opportunity to get their hand on the goods in advance without dealing with those pesky lines. The general public will be faced with some long overdue crowd control measures including time specific bracelets for the first 160 people in line to shop the shoe and accessory assortments and restrictions on buying more than one of the same item, but a lucky few will be allowed to shop in advance and sit back and chortle as they watch the hoi polloi fight over the last suede dress.
We noticed the pictured sign (click to enlarge) on H&M's SoHo doors this week. It gives instructions on how to register and win a preview shopping opportunity for the Jimmy Choo line. You may risk random text messages from H&M for the rest of your life, but what is that when compared to the opportunity to get your $299 thigh high leather stiletto boots before everyone else?
Winners will be announced on November 11th, so happy texting until then.

Collaboration Anticipation: Jean Paul Gaultier x Target Coming In March

If the glut of exclusive designer team-ups has become overwhelming, Target is showing no signs of letting up, announcing yesterday that Jean Paul Gaultier will be the third superstar designer after Alexander McQueen and Anna Sui to participate in the mass chain's Designer Collaborations program. Gaultier's Target collection will bow on March 7^th and be available through April 11^th of next year. As with his predecessors in the program, Gaultier has chosen a muse for the line: "The American Woman". It's a little more vague than the others, but given his inventive aesthetic, it would be asking a lot for the eccentric Parisian couturier to pin himself down to a single inspiration, anyway. The big change with this collection is that Target is taking a more exclusive distribution approach, with plans to sell the line in only 250 stores rather than the 600 that carried Sui's recent line. Does this suggest a smaller, possibly more expensive selection from Gaultier, or is the chain simply trying to drum up more excitement with scarcity? We'll know more in the coming months as details are bound to leak. So far, there's no word on a Manhattan pop-up boutique either, like the ones for McQueen and Sui, though we can't imagine the line being launched without it. By next March, however, Target should finally have a Manhattan store. Will we be seeing a big Gaultier party in East Harlem?
Jean Paul Gaultier Set for Target Collaboration (WWD)
Jean Paul Gaultier (Official Site)