FIT Takes Up Arms: Love & War The Weaponized Woman

There are lots of things to love about FIT's lively new exhibition, Love & War: The Weaponized Woman. For starters, like all FIT shows, it's free. Then there's Reuben Toledo's typically witty and sexy poster image. It shows humor and sophistication. If that's not enough to attract you, the show is chock full of the sort of runway image pieces that never make it onto the back of an actual customer, but are hugely entertaining to see in person, including two of the most extravagant pieces from John Galliano's most recent whacked-out Dior Haute Couture collection. In fact, the show couldn't be timed better. "Heroes" is the breakout TV hit of the season. A "Wonder Woman" movie is in the works, and with the tougher look of the fall collections, and Balenciaga showing looks like the one pictured above for next spring, it looks like women will be encouraged to armor themselves like Joan of Arc for the forseeable future.

More after the jump

Joan of Arc is the starting point for this show which includes some theatrical costumes and juxtaposes them with actual antique armor from FIT's collection as well as examples from designers like Paco Rabanne showing how the same techniques made their way into modern   fashion. Valerie Steele, FIT's chief curator and staffers Patricia Mears and Fred Dennis hace managed to include famous items like Issey Miyake's red molded breastplate and Thierry Mugler's cyborg costumes worn by supermodel Emma Sjöberg in George Michael's "Too Funky" video. (yes, The Shophound has a mind for minutiae, so much so that we can say the Mugler pieces have been misdated at 1995. The video was made in 1992. We love that video.) Steele and co. have also unearthed surprises like an inventive Samurai inspired outfit by Giorgio Armani from 1981, a time when Mr. Armani was much more adventurous than the paragon of understatement we have come to know. The team has culled a compelling collection of outfits illustrating their themes including military fashion, warrior-like looks and the dichotomy of lingerie that takes on the look of armor. Most of all, it's an opportunity to see some of Alexander McQueen's more challenging creations like a leather trimmed catsuit that is a costume in desperate search of a superheroine, and even one of Gianni Versace's famous S&M dresses, because fetishwear (one of Steele's favorite touchstones) derives much of it's look from military details. Even the elegant Ralph Rucci is included with a leather trimmed cape, giving us a preview of the museum's next big show, a retrospective of the Chado designer coming next year. We'll be first in line.

Love & War: The Weaponized Woman The Museum at FIT Seventh Avenue at 27th Street, Manhattan
through December 16th